On a vibrant May morning at Alliance Française de Delhi, the EUNIC India initiative “Breakfast: A Taste of European Mornings” brought together cultural enthusiasts to celebrate diversity through food. Among the many stories shared that day, one that stood out came from Ms. Isabel Pérez Gálvez, Cultural Manager at Instituto Cervantes, New Delhi, who offered a fascinating glimpse into the past, present, and future of Spanish cuisine.
Reflecting on the origin of Spain’s beloved culinary tradition—tapas—Ms. Pérez Gálvez traced its roots to the 16th century, when Seville emerged as a key maritime hub connecting Spain with the Americas. With this trade came transformative ingredients like tomatoes and potatoes, now staples in Spanish cooking.
“There are different stories about the origin of tapas,” she said. “If I’m not mistaken, it goes back to the 16th century, when Seville was the main point of communication with American trade, and when tomatoes and potatoes first arrived in Europe.”
She went on to share a popular legend associated with the birth of tapas: “One version is that in Seville, in some of the canteens near the port where people waited to board ships, they would drink something—often wine or sherry—and cover their glass with a small plate to keep out mosquitoes and other insects. Eventually, this plate began to hold a small bite of food. That’s one of the stories behind tapas.”
But this story wasn’t just about history. Ms. Pérez Gálvez also turned her attention to the present, highlighting a compelling trend among young Spanish chefs—a return to culinary roots that blends tradition with global inspiration.
“I would like to return to this idea of innovation,” she said. “My partner is a chef, and I’ve noticed a movement among young chefs in Spain. They’re looking back at the recipes of their grandmothers and mothers—the dishes cooked at home for family—and they’re trying to innovate from that base.”
Spain’s contemporary culinary scene is no stranger to global acclaim, thanks to visionary chefs like Ferran Adrià and the Roca brothers. However, this new wave of gastronomic revival is more personal and nostalgic. It is grounded in memories, yet open to the world.
“These young chefs have often travelled or immigrated to other countries—India, Japan, China, Latin America. They bring those experiences and culinary influences back with them and combine them with traditional Spanish recipes. This fusion is happening in several restaurants across Spain today,” she explained.
Ms. Pérez Gálvez illustrated how food serves as both a cultural bridge and a canvas for innovation, linking generations, countries, and traditions. The revival of tapas is not merely a nostalgic journey, but a dynamic reinvention of identity on a plate.
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